https://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/about/instance/homehttps://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/videos/browse?scope=localhttps://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/homehttps://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/w/oPsswzJSDzJWvP3UoZNz9Ahttps://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/lazy-static/thumbnails/7cdfa6c2-2f0f-44f3-9b43-24cfcfce9dd0.jpg1966 Mustang Front Speaker Upgrade | Better Sound Without Cutting the DashThe original speaker setup in a classic Mustang leaves a lot to be desired, but upgrading the sound doesn’t mean you have to cut or modify the factory dash. In this video, I upgrade the front dash speakers in my 1966 Ford Mustang using a pair of KICKER 3.5-inch coaxial speakers. I was able to reuse a mounting plate from an earlier speaker setup, allowing me to install two modern speakers in the factory dash location. I walk through removing the old speakers, test fitting the new KICKER speakers, wiring everything up, and getting the new setup installed while keeping the Mustang’s original interior intact. If you have a 1965 or 1966 Mustang and want better sound without permanently modifying your dash, this is a simple upgrade worth considering. Full article, parts information, and more classic Mustang projects: https://myclassiccarblog.com/upgrading-the-sound-in-a-1966-mustang https://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/static/streaming-playlists/hls/b8c95009-4328-4b62-ab27-f6a0928f1e16/50532941-f62a-43ba-9922-41f7607819ce-master.m3u8https://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/videos/embed/oPsswzJSDzJWvP3UoZNz9A394052026-09-01T19:21:33.660ZYESCarl's Classic Car GarageNOhttps://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/w/cMS6761jLfABZP2JBx48unhttps://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/lazy-static/thumbnails/df1dd297-8367-4095-8e75-573f4d85247e.pngHow to Remove the Rear Seat on a 2026 Ford F-150 SuperCab (No Warning Lights)In this video, I show how I removed the rear seat from my 2026 Ford F-150 SuperCab to create more usable space behind the driver’s seat. Full write-up with materials, dimensions and cost: https://myclassiccarblog.com/diy-ford-f-150-rear-seat-delete-platform-build/ Part 2, the platform build: https://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/w/eiWjVJF9sGqAdqpf1HZtBT The job involves more than simply unbolting and lifting out the seat. I walk through how I disassembled the seat-belt components and retained the necessary sensors and electrical connections so the truck would continue recognizing the restraint system without triggering warning messages or errors on the dashboard. I also explain how the added space will be used for a custom platform and wheelchair storage as part of my accessibility modifications. Even if you have a different reason for removing your rear seat, this video should help you understand what is involved before taking yours apart. Seat and restraint systems can vary by model, trim level, and production year. Use this video as a reference and verify the correct procedures for your specific vehicle before disconnecting or modifying any safety-related components. For more classic-car projects, truck modifications, accessibility solutions, and practical garage repairs, visit: https://myclassiccarblog.com/ #FordF150 #RearSeatDelete #F150Mods #TruckMods #WheelchairAccessible #DIYTruck https://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/static/streaming-playlists/hls/5f7bdcdc-f5a6-4c4b-b532-8b7d216ae0b1/1b35d8f1-738d-4ddc-a5e6-5536529e7b91-master.m3u8https://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/videos/embed/cMS6761jLfABZP2JBx48un4800122026-09-06T18:36:00.718Zrear seat deleteford f-150f150 supercabtruck modsdiyYESCarl's Classic Car GarageNOhttps://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/w/eiWjVJF9sGqAdqpf1HZtBThttps://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/lazy-static/thumbnails/a7b5225e-73e9-4638-a4b9-9ad4d9a599dd.pngDIY Ford F-150 Rear Seat Delete Platform Build | SuperCab Storage DeckIn this video, I install a custom rear deck in my Ford F-150, turning the space opened up by removing the rear seat into a platform for wheelchair storage. Full write-up with materials, dimensions and cost: https://myclassiccarblog.com/diy-ford-f-150-rear-seat-delete-platform-build/ Part 1, removing the rear seat: https://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/w/cMS6761jLfABZP2JBx48un This project is part of my ongoing truck accessibility modifications, making the interior more practical for my everyday needs. Follow along as I show the installation and how the deck fits into my setup. Find more truck modifications, classic-car projects, and garage repairs at Carl’s Classic Car Garage: https://myclassiccarblog.com/ https://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/static/streaming-playlists/hls/6bc7ed2c-0a59-471e-9cc1-3108f764d665/18dc073f-01fd-4066-92f4-77f66b3a3be9-master.m3u8https://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/videos/embed/eiWjVJF9sGqAdqpf1HZtBT48500242026-09-15T23:10:23.174Zrear seat deleteseat delete platformwheelchair storagetruck modsford f-150YESCarl's Classic Car GarageNOhttps://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/w/wufT35GYhdYqWH6PrZd42ahttps://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/lazy-static/thumbnails/1bb7cd22-e8cb-4e61-b35e-92b43b544171.jpgShocking Turn Signal Fix For Classic Cars!**Shocking Turn Signal Fix For Classic Cars!** Turn signal stuck on solid instead of blinking? I've been messing with car electronics for years, and this one still caught me off guard. While rewiring my classic Mustang, I tested the turn signals with only the dash indicator bulb hooked up. It lit up solid, and dim, and wouldn't blink. I bought a new flasher thinking I'd burned the old one out. Same thing. Turns out the old-school thermal flasher needs a minimum amp draw to cycle. With only one bulb on the circuit, it never heats up enough to click, so you get a dim, solid light. It's the same reason LED bulbs cause fast flashing or no flash at all with an original flasher. (A dim, solid bulb can also mean a bad ground or poor connection, so check those too before you buy parts.) The fix is an electronic flasher (it needs a ground wire). I swap one in, and the single test bulb instantly flashes bright and strong. I also picked one that still makes the audible click, so you don't drive around with your blinker on. **Chapters** 0:00 Intro 1:14 The problem: solid turn signal, no flash 2:52 Why thermal flashers need a minimum amp draw 3:22 Why LED bulbs cause the same problem 3:56 Installing the electronic flasher 4:28 The result 5:05 The flasher I used (link below) 6:10 Getting the audible click back 🔧 **Electronic flasher with audible click:** https://geni.us/IQHSP0 📖 **Full write-up on the blog:** https://myclassiccarblog.com/shocking-turn-signal-fix-classic-cars/ *As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.*https://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/static/streaming-playlists/hls/f6e427cb-078e-4407-aad1-dbee961565ff/400fbb2b-0884-4a7f-8f88-69886a9f5702-master.m3u8https://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/videos/embed/wufT35GYhdYqWH6PrZd42a411042026-10-16T16:41:13.813ZYESCarl's Classic Car GarageNOhttps://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/w/22gGDbQSeGojSL7ptBYN4nhttps://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/lazy-static/thumbnails/96c3582f-02a0-4af2-a26e-0a1d74e00372.jpgHow to Install a Glove Box Insert in a 1965-1966 MustangInstalling a new glove box insert in my 1966 Mustang. The process is the same for the 1965 Mustang. **In this video:** - 00:00 Tidying up behind the dash (stereo wiring, Bluetooth amp, defroster hoses) - 00:33 Replacing the dead glove box light switch - 00:54 New screw kit - 01:05 Which way the insert goes: wide end UP, not down - 01:38 Pinching the cardboard in and wiggling it into place - 02:12 Tucking the edges under the metal dash flanges and running the screws - 03:09 Bonus: hiding my stereo remote and phone charger in the glove box - 04:20 Wrap-up **Full write-up with step-by-step instructions on the blog:** https://myclassiccarblog.com/mustang-glove-box-insert/ **Products used:** - [Glove box insert for 1965-1966 Mustang](https://geni.us/I2mYifn) - [Glove box light switch](https://geni.us/VZFQH) - [Bluetooth stereo amp](https://geni.us/RgEjl) *As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This doesn't cost you anything extra and helps support the garage.* Carl's Classic Car Garage - [myclassiccarblog.com](https://myclassiccarblog.com)https://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/static/streaming-playlists/hls/08468eef-1c65-43eb-ad3b-c633a2ab6dcb/867f21e1-c9b9-42f1-ae50-ab3e4b5819a7-master.m3u8https://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/videos/embed/22gGDbQSeGojSL7ptBYN4n305052026-10-19T16:01:21.340ZMustang restoration1966 Mustang1965 Mustangglove box insertclassic Mustang interiorYESCarl's Classic Car GarageNOhttps://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/w/qmiyqpb6DTCnBqpUwtNXfJhttps://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/lazy-static/thumbnails/0498bc3f-6a9d-47c9-8919-410c1883f4b7.jpg1965-1966 Mustang Heater Box Rebuild | Full RestorationThe complete heater box rebuild on my 1966 Mustang, from pulling the box out of the car to bolting it back to the firewall. The same parts and process apply to the 1965 Mustang. I tore down the heater box, wire-wheeled and vinegar-soaked the rusty parts for 24 hours, painted everything satin black inside and out, epoxied cracks in the fiberglass housing, and rebuilt it with a new gasket kit, blower motor, resistor, defroster plenum and casing clips. My heater core was in good shape, so I kept the original. **In this video:** - 00:00 Disconnecting the heater control cables - 00:28 Disconnecting the heater hoses - 00:52 Unbolting the motor and pulling the heater box - 01:23 Heater box teardown on the bench - 03:35 Inspecting the heater core (keeping the original) - 04:09 Removing the blower motor - 04:50 Motor only vs. full assembly: saving the fan cage - 07:23 Cracks in the fiberglass housing - 08:40 Wire-wheel rust cleanup - 09:04 Removing the heater door flap - 11:13 Why not to clean with WD-40 before paint - 12:57 24-hour vinegar soak for rust - 14:03 New parts and laying out the gasket kit - 14:47 Choosing a gasket adhesive - 15:15 Reassembly: gaskets, motor and core - 20:34 Switching to a foam-and-metal adhesive - 22:40 The new defroster plenum - 24:27 Installing the heater box clips - 28:13 Rebuild or buy new? - 30:16 Cotter-pin upgrade for the cable arms - 31:30 Reinstalling the heater box - 33:03 Go easy: the housing is fragile - 34:17 Bolting the motor flange to the firewall - 35:07 Hooking up and adjusting the cables - 35:58 Wrap-up and results **Full write-up with step-by-step instructions on the blog:** https://myclassiccarblog.com/mustang-heater-restoration/ **Products used:** - [Heater box gasket kit](https://geni.us/heatergasketkit) - [Replacement defroster plenum](https://geni.us/L0cGYbl) - [Heater box clips](https://geni.us/heaterclips) - [Blower motor resistor](https://geni.us/heaterresistor) - [Replacem...https://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/static/streaming-playlists/hls/c531063b-67f2-46c7-90a2-3a37dd8ed332/9018a892-544e-488b-abb3-e020cc760cf9-master.m3u8https://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/videos/embed/qmiyqpb6DTCnBqpUwtNXfJ2232022026-11-03T22:01:48.181Z1965 Mustangheater box rebuildMustang restorationMustang heater1966 MustangYESCarl's Classic Car GarageNOhttps://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/w/nhGRDweYP7n64Ucn72z55yhttps://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/lazy-static/thumbnails/e59c8ae0-9b21-43ff-acce-7cd783c6ef02.pngRockabilly Jeans on a Budget | Wrangler 13MWZ Cuff and Sizing GuideHow I get the 1950s rockabilly greaser look on a budget: heavyweight Wrangler 13MWZ Cowboy Cut jeans for under $40 instead of $200-$300 selvedge denim. I cover what 13MWZ means, how to size raw denim that shrinks, how to roll and iron a sharp 2-inch cuff, and how to wash them without losing that stiff, heavy feel. **In this video:** - 00:00 The 50s rockabilly look on a budget - 00:22 Why selvedge denim costs $200-$300 - 00:57 Wrangler 13MWZ Cowboy Cut: what 13MWZ means - 01:47 Raw denim: shrinking and how to wash it - 02:51 The 50s look for under $40 - 03:20 Sizing: how I ordered the waist - 04:17 Length: planning for the cuff - 04:49 How to roll a 2-inch cuff - 05:46 Ironing the cuff - 06:46 Heat pads and sizing spray - 07:30 Sizing recap: 40 waist, 38 length - 08:43 The finished look - 09:09 Boots, belt and break-in tips - 09:57 Wrap-up **Full write-up on the blog:** https://myclassiccarblog.com/rockabilly-jeans-on-a-budget/ **Products in this video:** - [Wrangler 13MWZ Cowboy Cut jeans](https://geni.us/i4nx) - [Leather belt](https://geni.us/D8M3KN) - [Black work boots](https://geni.us/n8EMge) - [Converse sneakers](https://geni.us/2vLI0X7) - [Sunglasses](https://geni.us/P8hafJU) *As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This doesn't cost you anything extra and helps support the garage.* Carl's Classic Car Garage - [myclassiccarblog.com](https://myclassiccarblog.com)https://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/static/streaming-playlists/hls/ac64fd96-2fa1-4ad0-80cc-b2dd14f2b850/5369fac9-f1a5-4587-8b75-1727c5c068c4-master.m3u8https://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/videos/embed/nhGRDweYP7n64Ucn72z55y627002026-11-04T20:29:36.146ZrockabillyWrangler 13MWZcuffed jeansraw denimgreaser styleYESCarl's Classic Car GarageNOhttps://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/c/carlsclassiccargarage/videoshttps://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/a/root/video-channels