In this video:

• 00:00 Tidying up behind the dash (stereo wiring, Bluetooth amp, defroster hoses)
• 00:33 Replacing the dead glove box light switch
• 00:54 New screw kit
• 01:05 Which way the insert goes: wide end UP, not down
• 01:38 Pinching the cardboard in and wiggling it into place
• 02:12 Tucking the edges under the metal dash flanges and running the screws
• 03:09 Bonus: hiding my stereo remote and phone charger in the glove box
• 04:20 Wrap-up

Full write-up with step-by-step instructions on the blog:
https://myclassiccarblog.com/mustang-glove-box-insert/

Products used:

• Glove box insert for 1965-1966 Mustang
• Glove box light switch
• Bluetooth stereo amp

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Carl's Classic Car Garage - myclassiccarblog.com

Turn signal stuck on solid instead of blinking? I've been messing with car electronics for years, and this one still caught me off guard.

While rewiring my classic Mustang, I tested the turn signals with only the dash indicator bulb hooked up. It lit up solid, and dim, and wouldn't blink. I bought a new flasher thinking I'd burned the old one out. Same thing.

Turns out the old-school thermal flasher needs a minimum amp draw to cycle. With only one bulb on the circuit, it never heats up enough to click, so you get a dim, solid light. It's the same reason LED bulbs cause fast flashing or no flash at all with an original flasher. (A dim, solid bulb can also mean a bad ground or poor connection, so check those too before you buy parts.)

The fix is an electronic flasher (it needs a ground wire). I swap one in, and the single test bulb instantly flashes bright and strong. I also picked one that still makes the audible click, so you don't drive around with your blinker on.

Chapters
0:00 Intro
1:14 The problem: solid turn signal, no flash
2:52 Why thermal flashers need a minimum amp draw
3:22 Why LED bulbs cause the same problem
3:56 Installing the electronic flasher
4:28 The result
5:05 The flasher I used (link below)
6:10 Getting the audible click back

🔧 Electronic flasher with audible click: https://geni.us/IQHSP0
📖 Full write-up on the blog: https://myclassiccarblog.com/shocking-turn-signal-fix-classic-cars/

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

Full write-up with materials, dimensions and cost: https://myclassiccarblog.com/diy-ford-f-150-rear-seat-delete-platform-build/
Part 1, removing the rear seat: https://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/w/cMS6761jLfABZP2JBx48un

This project is part of my ongoing truck accessibility modifications, making the interior more practical for my everyday needs. Follow along as I show the installation and how the deck fits into my setup.

Find more truck modifications, classic-car projects, and garage repairs at Carl’s Classic Car Garage:
https://myclassiccarblog.com/

Full write-up with materials, dimensions and cost: https://myclassiccarblog.com/diy-ford-f-150-rear-seat-delete-platform-build/
Part 2, the platform build: https://videos.myclassiccarblog.com/w/eiWjVJF9sGqAdqpf1HZtBT

The job involves more than simply unbolting and lifting out the seat. I walk through how I disassembled the seat-belt components and retained the necessary sensors and electrical connections so the truck would continue recognizing the restraint system without triggering warning messages or errors on the dashboard.

I also explain how the added space will be used for a custom platform and wheelchair storage as part of my accessibility modifications. Even if you have a different reason for removing your rear seat, this video should help you understand what is involved before taking yours apart.

Seat and restraint systems can vary by model, trim level, and production year. Use this video as a reference and verify the correct procedures for your specific vehicle before disconnecting or modifying any safety-related components.

For more classic-car projects, truck modifications, accessibility solutions, and practical garage repairs, visit:

https://myclassiccarblog.com/

#FordF150 #RearSeatDelete #F150Mods #TruckMods #WheelchairAccessible #DIYTruck

In this video, I upgrade the front dash speakers in my 1966 Ford Mustang using a pair of KICKER 3.5-inch coaxial speakers. I was able to reuse a mounting plate from an earlier speaker setup, allowing me to install two modern speakers in the factory dash location.

I walk through removing the old speakers, test fitting the new KICKER speakers, wiring everything up, and getting the new setup installed while keeping the Mustang’s original interior intact.

If you have a 1965 or 1966 Mustang and want better sound without permanently modifying your dash, this is a simple upgrade worth considering.

Full article, parts information, and more classic Mustang projects:
https://myclassiccarblog.com/upgrading-the-sound-in-a-1966-mustang